We’ve been working so hard getting our gallery up and running and successful. But over Labor Day weekend, we decided to close up shop and head to Greenwood, MS for some rest and relaxation.
Greenwood, Mississippi is an interesting town. We drove in via Memphis (where we spend a day looking at the Caroll Cloar papers at UM), which took us through the backroads of Tennessee and Mississippi. Poverty surrounded us. This was especially true when we reached Greenwood. Shanty houses and trailer parks were everywhere. And even the sign pointing to the Viking factory seemed old and rusted. We wondered: was this really the same town that housed our luxurious destination – The Alluvian Hotel?
As we reached downtown Greenwood, it still didn’t seem possible. The downtown area was deserted on a Friday afternoon. As we turned onto the main street, Howard, we began to see some signs of life. We pulled up to the hotel and walked inside. It was gorgeous. Marble floors, green apples for the taking, and a huge painting by Mississippi artist, William Dunlap. The front desk manager, Kelvin, was so friendly. He got us all checked in and we headed upstairs.
Our room was no disappointment. We had a bottle of champagne waiting for us. The bathroom was sleek and modern, and the room was elegant and comfortable. We kicked off our shoes, popped open the champagne, and brushed the dust off from our journey.
And I couldn’t help but think – what a dichotomy of classes. Encapsulated on this one block was immense wealth and prosperity. The Viking Cooking School and the Alluvian Spa were across the street. A world renowned restaurant was next door. Yet, not two blocks away sat poverty. How had this come to be?
Well, The Alluvian Hotel is owned by Fred Karl, who also owns Viking. He is from Greenwood, and has helped make Viking into a very sustainable and sought after brand for outfitting one’s kitchen. We know: we own all their pots and pans and knifes! And Viking is the main employer in Greenwood. Without this major company, this town might cease to exit altogether. I find it amazing that one company – one man – can make such a difference in the lives of so many people – but why do they still live in such empoverished areas? It’s a question I can’t answer.
That night we enjoyed a very Mississippian dinner at the adjoining restaurant, Gardina’s. We sat in our own private booth/room (which is apparently very Mississippian as well) and the food was divine.
The next morning, my mission was to enjoy Greenwood until our appointment for massages. And we did. We spent almost two hours in the local bookstore, Turnrow Books. It is a fabulous independently owned bookstore. It’s housed in an old building and features two stories of local and international books. It also has a small cafe upstairs. The center is open and well lit with natural light. We loved being in there. It just gave us good feelings and soothed our soul.
We wandered through an art gallery and several clothing stores as well. We picked up some homemade pimento cheese and freshly made bread and headed back to our room. Snacking on this local food, we relaxed and then headed across the street for massages.
The Alluvian Spa is another great place. I felt bathed in luxury from the moment I stepped into the dressing room. The massage was wonderful, but somehow, the time I spend in the steam room and five-headed shower was even better. I poured myself a glass of tea and relaxed in the hot steam. They’d thought of everything. From disposable toothbrushes, to deoderant, combs and hair goop, I was loving every minute of this private and special bathroom experience.
After cleaning up, I felt refreshed and ready to cook! We enjoyed a cocktail on the porch of the hotel and then joined our cooking class at the Viking Cooking School. What fun we had! We made lobster and steak and potato chips a delicious salad. And we drank a lot of wine! The cooking class was fun, but it was the people we met that made it outstanding. Talking with people from other areas, learning how to make gumbo from a crusty old Louisiana man, and laughing. Our night was perfect.
We look forward to returning to Greenwood, amid it’s dichotomy of wealth and poverty, for another getaway soon. Maybe this time we’ll venture beyond the comfort of that block and find some local juke joints.
